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The Savannah Jazz Festival marks its 45th year this September, and for three days the fountain end of Forsyth Park becomes the center of the city.

Jones Street is often described as Savannah's most beautiful street. It is certainly its most photographed. Visitors come for the arching live oaks, the red brick paving, the iron balconies, and the Spanish moss that softens the light beneath the canopy. They pause for a photograph, walk a block or two, and continue exploring the Historic District. Most never discover what makes Jones Street memorable. This is not an article about photographing Jones Street. It is about exper

Savannah is often described as a city of squares, but that’s tourist’s shorthand. The real unit of the city is the ward, a roughly ten-acre cell of streets, lots, and a central green. The pattern was drawn up in 1733 by General James Oglethorpe, the British soldier and parliamentarian who founded the Georgia colony, and was replicated, almost without revision, by successive generations of city councils until the 1850s. Each ward holds a square at its heart, two rows of resid